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A cup of Kenyan tea and a necklace

Posted: Tuesday, November 10, 2009 3:20 PM
Filed Under:

SAMBURU, Kenya – We were on a five-hour journey from Maralal to Samburu in northern Kenya. It was noon and we asked our driver, Albert, to stop at a beautiful village we were driving past for a cup of tea.

The menu was hand written on the wall of the "Small World Hotel." The local tea is called "chai" and costs ten Kenyan shillings for a cup, or about 15 cents.   

The small village was made up of one main unpaved street with mud shops lining it and straw huts scattered behind them. The town is in the middle of nowhere and the three-year drought here has left most of this region without water, food or tourists.

We ordered three cups of chai and sat on the ground beside the main road. After the very first sip, we all looked at each other, thinking the same thing: It was undrinkable. But by now, what seemed like most of the village’s residents had sat down beside us, watching our every move. Could we possibly pour out the liquid in front of the locals?

Krzysztof Galica / NBC News
Paul Goldman, left, and NBC correspondent Martin Fletcher, right, stop for a cup of "chai" tea at the "Small World Hotel" in a small village in northern Kenya.

Albert came over and explained that in this area they combine the tea with hot water, milk and sugar. Lots of sugar. Ever the diplomat, Albert passed the cups to some women who had just arrived. By now I realized why he hadn’t ordered a cup for himself.

Everyone in the village was very friendly and welcoming. But this region, once a tourist destination, has become a security risk. The never-ending drought – plus the proximity to Sudan, Ethiopia and Somalia – has caused tribes to clash with each other.

The Samburu women wear beautiful bead necklaces with layers upon layers of bright red, blue and yellow colors. All the necklaces tell a story, the colors and design all make up a woman's status and indicating their marital status.

Krzysztof Galica / NBC News
A Samburu woman shows off some of her beautiful necklaces.

The women were very surprised when we expressed an interest in their necklaces. Slowly they realized they might be able to make some money and become very eager to make a sale. The women just unhooked the back of the necklaces and handed them over for us to examine more closely. We bought some as souvenirs. No bargaining was needed – they were just so cheap.

As we left, Albert explained that we might have just helped start up a new business venture among the women of the village. The next car with tourists that stops there might find a small shop and a big smile.

Read more World Blog reports from Kenya:
Kenyan girls given a chance to dream
A window into East African refugee's pain
Continuing Kenyan journey to help others

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Comments

What a nice story on a country I didn't know was so poor. Thanks for it.  I know a man originally from Kenya stationned here in Sasebo, Japan. He couldn't be a nicer gentleman who misses his family.
Kenya has its lows and highs like any other nation.  Please don't capitalize on our lows, Kenya is the most beautiful country you can ever visit, come with a positive mind, and you will see greatness in all aspects.  At least the women were not begging but could sell something,necklace, tea etc, we are enterprenuers by blood.


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