Kenyans debate nation's fate
Posted: Friday, January 04, 2008 2:11 PM
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On Assignment
By Adrienne Mong, NBC News Producer
MASAI MARA, Kenya – A safari guide, a baggage handler, a passenger, and a co-pilot were standing under the wing of a propeller plane waiting for a flight to Nairobi.
It sounds like the beginning of a joke.
It's not.
Here in one of the great wildlife parks, the Masai Mara National Reserve, these four people were animatedly discussing Kenya's political future in a mixture of Swahili and English. Specifically, they debated whether another presidential election could be held in three to six months. The original contest, which was held Dec. 27, has resulted in allegations of vote-rigging and a wave of violence that's killed more than 300 people.
I’ve been on vacation here, spending some time away from my usual post as an NBC News producer in Beijing, and for days, most of the Kenyans I’ve encountered in the popular safari area of Masai Mara have alternated between looking after worried tourists and monitoring the political climate in the country.
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| Adrienne Mong / NBC News |
| The government sends out a text message urging for restraint. |
My safari guide, Eliud, a very well-read and thoughtful Kikuyu (the largest of Kenya's 40-odd tribes and one that is generally said to be supporting incumbent President Mwai Kibari), spent hours taking me around the Mara plains, patiently answering questions about Kenyan wildlife and politicians.
On Thursday, the morning of the opposition party's planned rally in Nairobi (the protest was later cancelled), Eliud's cell phone beeped several times.
"It's all going very high-tech," he said mysteriously. Then he showed me two text messages from the government:
"The Government of Kenya advises that the sending of hate messages inciting violence is an offence that could result in prosecution."
"The Government of Kenya advises you not to take part in any unlawful assembly that may result in violence!"
As we drove through Oloololo Gate into the Masai Mara reserve, park guards sat in the shade of a lone tree listening to the BBC World Service radio, waiting for the latest news.
Unexpected development
At the lodge, an extended American family debated endlessly how best to avoid spending the night in Nairobi. A German couple who had been advised to cancel the next stop on their itinerary – Lake Naivasha in the Rift Valley – were fielding conflicting opinions on what to do if they couldn't make the morning flight to the capital.
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| Adrienne Mong / NBC News |
| Despite the unrest, tourists come and go from the Masai Mara reserve. |
In the end, everyone took the flight to Nairobi and we were surprised at how quiet the streets of the city appeared.
George, a Kenyan who picked me up at Wilson airport, said it was strange to see heavily armed police on horseback patrolling the normally peaceful downtown area of Nairobi or in full riot gear stationed all along Uhuru Park, site of the cancelled opposition rally. Kenya has long been a magnet for tourists because of its history as one of the most stable democracies in sub-Saharan Africa.
"Well," I tried my hand at cheering him up, "Barack Obama won! Do you think anyone here noticed?"
Obama’s father, a goat-herder turned economist grew up in Kenya. When the senator from Illinois visited Kenya in August 2006, he was greeted to a hero’s welcome.
"Oh, for sure, if all this unrest weren't happening, people would be on the streets dancing and singing," George replied. Not – as he was reluctant to say – rioting and looting.