Finding the ‘old’ in ‘new’ China
Posted: Wednesday, December 12, 2007 1:26 PM
Filed Under:
Beijing, China
By Adrienne Mong, NBC News Producer
CHONGQING MUNICIPALITY, Central China –
Many of our stories for NBC News focus on the "new" China. Since the country launched its open-door policy in 1978, there's been much to say and much to document on this subject – unprecedented social change amidst years of double-digit economic growth.
But it's the old China that fascinates me – a China that still holds fast to a certain way of life, no matter how many new Louis Vuitton boutiques or Wal-Mart superstores might sprout up across the country.
Roughly 60 percent of the nation lives in the countryside. I was reminded of that recently as we sped down Yuyi Expressway, through the Chongqing provincial municipality, where every nook and cranny is occupied. We were on an official trip sponsored by the Chinese government to visit the Yangtze River’s Three Gorges Dam and some other areas along the way.
Signs of the ‘old’
Driving this road, you see rice paddies of every size and shape and fields of leafy green vegetables stacked on top of one another like tiers of a wedding cake. Where there is no farmland, there are two- or three-story concrete homes with green tinted windows reflecting the countryside.
 |
| Adrienne Mong / NBC News |
| The face of New China? |
It's this sleepy, but hardy rural culture that we rarely get to observe from our perch in the big city of Beijing: gaggles of extremely plump, white-feathered ducks; farmers carrying buckets of dirt balanced on a pole around their shoulders; the odd water buffalo; and babies swaddled in padded cotton layers and wearing split pants (who says the Chinese aren't good to their environment; imagine all the babies here using disposable diapers!).
And then, of course, there's that ultimate symbol of old China: the government minder. No matter how much the country has opened up to foreigners, foreign influence, and foreign media, the central government still retains a healthy suspicion toward journalists.
Old government, new media
During our visit to the Yangtze River's Three Gorges region, we were being shepherded by a group of government minders from the State Council Information Office (the central government's public affairs/information department) and provincial-level officials. The ones from Beijing were distinctly better dressed, spoke English, and seemed generally affable. The local officials were much quieter, officious, and liked to hover.
Whenever we did anything remotely journalistic – like film a scene, take notes, or interview someone – we suddenly had three or four cameras trained on us. One or two would be a local Chinese news organization filing the obligatory "foreign media see China!" story. The others we were not so sure about; the guys looked an awful lot like our minders, dressed in ill-fitting suits, carrying their cameras like props.
 |
| Adrienne Mong / Nbc News |
| An NBC News' Mark Mullen conducts an interview and attracts local interest. |
When we tried to wander off the beaten trail, as we did in the old town of Dachang, minders materialized from all corners to shoo us back in the direction of the guide.
By the time we'd been driven to the third waste-management plant of the trip – all part of the government’s effort to demonstrate the seriousness with which it takes environment concerns arising from the Three Gorges Dam project – even the local journalists were bored.
A moment of rebellion
But then there was at least one unexpected moment of levity. During a whirlwind go-round of Xingshan, we trooped through the main town square and came upon a group of elderly ladies preparing to rehearse a drum dance. It was sunset, and the scene was picture-perfect. All the cameramen immediately sprung into action and the reporters began asking questions.
We hung back a little. It seemed like another government orchestration – a parade of happy villagers.
 |
| Adrienne Mong / Nbc News |
| An older woman in Xingshan takes in all the excitement. |
But then shouts echoed in the square.
"Let's go, let's go, let's go!" a handful of officials shouted at the journalists, trying to herd everyone toward the waiting minibuses.
Then the drumming was punctuated by a long wail.
"Aiya," one of our Beijing minders said. "We're behind schedule! This isn't even part of the program!"
Everyone ignored her. Our cameraman began filming. And the elderly women continued dancing and singing as the sun set over the square.
Read Adrienne's other blog from her trip: China's Three Gorges Dam - a magnet for controversy
