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Behind the scenes at the '17 Big' ... sort of

Posted: Sunday, October 21, 2007 9:35 AM
Filed Under:

By Adrienne Mong, NBC News Producer

We were running at least half an hour behind schedule – a little surprising given the tightly orchestrated nature of China's weeklong Seventeenth Communist Party Congress (informally known and much less a mouthful as the "17 Big" in Mandarin).

Hundreds of journalists from around the country and around the world were herded down passageways inside the Great Hall of the People – or as NBC cameraman Marcus O'Brien calls it, the Great Walk of the People. (To get anywhere inside the cavernous building, you have to walk. A lot. The Hall, which seats China's legislature, covers more than 1.8 million square feet.)

We all came to a stop on the second floor of the Great Hall of the People, outside the viewing hall. Minutes more passed as everyone, yawning and bleary-eyed on a Sunday morning, shuffled equipment and feet.

Adrienne Mong / NBC News
Cameramen aplenty on the opening day of the Party Congress. 

However, when the doors suddenly opened, a roar erupted as everyone surged through into the room, rushing to get the best spot.

Pole position
Chinese and foreign cameramen elbowed their way to the front of the seating overlooking the stage below, planting tripods and stepladders over one another. Photographers jumped onto folding chairs and whipped out colossal telephoto lenses to get a closer shot of China's leadership arrayed in a row of seats below us. Print journalists pulled out binoculars to review the personalities.

All the big names were present: President Hu Jintao, of course; his predecessor Jiang Zemin; Premier Wen Jiabao and his predecessors Zhu Rongji and Li Peng; and many more.

The closing speeches began: "The Seventeenth National Congress of the Communist Party of China has approved the report made by Comrade Hu Jintao on behalf of its Sixteenth Central Committee...."

Adrienne Mong / NBC News
China's leadership at the closing session of the 17th Party Congress. 

As the speaker intoned, I began noting the frequent use of the phrase zhongguo tese sehui zhuyi, or "socialism with Chinese characteristics." During Hu's speech on the first day of the 17th Party Congress, this well-known slogan, which Deng Xiaoping formally introduced at the 12th Party Congress in 1982, appeared 52 times.

'Think coronation'
As much as it's a set piece that never deviates from a highly stage-managed script, the Party Congress does lay out China's future policy blueprint and elects a new leadership.

And for all its orchestration (during the opening session, Lindsey Hilsum of Britain's Channel 4 gleefully called the event a farce while the LA Times' correspondent Mark Magnier wrote, "Think coronation"), the pomp and circumstance remind onlookers that the Congress only takes place once every five years.

Adrienne Mong / NBC News
Stuffed Olympic "friendlies" adorned the front of every bus shuttling Party Congress delegates.

As with the first day of the Party Congress, many journalists on the last day didn't bother taking notes. Instead they busied themselves with taking snapshots of one another to mark the occasion. Not unlike many of the 2,217 delegates who – during breaks – pulled out digital cameras to take pictures with one another like long-lost roommates at a college reunion.

However, I was startled out of my reverie when a number of cameras suddenly appeared to be trained in my direction. In fact, they were all zooming in on the pristine-looking journalist sitting beside me – Sally Wu, better known in this part of the world as Wu Xiaoli.

Wu is a news anchor for the popular Hong Kong-based cable news station, Phoenix TV— part-owned by Rupert Murdoch's News Corp. She gained instant notoriety back in 1998, when then-Premier Zhu Rongji singled her out at his inaugural press conference, saying that he watched her news broadcast every day.

Adrienne Mong / NBC News
Delegates from the more exotic parts of China, dressed in their cultural finery, give interviews outside the Great Hall of the People.

Several times, I tried to duck out of the way, into the lap of a rather annoyed European journalist sitting on the other side of my seat, as Chinese reporters sidled up to Wu to request to take a photo with her.

The spectacle and the spectacular
When the voting began, however, we all perked up. As Hu asked, "Agree?" all hands were raised. "Not agree?" A silence ensued for a couple of second before calls of "mei you" ("None") rang out through the hall.

Several reporters chuckled aloud. To me, the phrase was doubly amusing, recalling the days back in the 1980s, when "mei you" was the stock answer to every question you ever asked of a shopkeeper or train ticket seller in China.

Despite all the tight controls, there was one notable change this time. Several veteran Party Congress reporters told me that there was greater freedom in covering the party delegates. Media could request interviews with delegates on the Party Congress media website or simply doorstop them on their way out of meetings.

It made for quite a sight: Dozens of camera crews and reporters trailing delegates from the steps of the Great Hall of the People to the dozens of tour buses standing across the road on Tiananmen Square, ready to shuttle the delegates back to their well-guarded hotels. And the delegates most often stopped were those from China's ethnic minorities and dressed in elaborate, spectacular even, tribal costumes. This – perhaps as much as the voting itself – lent new meaning to the word spectacle.

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I just returned from 6 weeks in China, (Chongqing) and found it at least as open as the U.S. In many ways the polititians are MORE open than the U.S. How close can you get to the President of the U.S.?? In fact, I am considering moving to China.... They say what they mean, and DO what they say!
gee, a communist dictatioship with chinese characteristics is still a chinese communist dictatorship. wonder if their was any lead paint on the walls! go dalai lama & free tibet!
many Americans died fighting being told that communism was evil, which it is.So tell me how we should label those who side  with these evils whether it be politicians or corporations. I will tell you, TRAITORS. Nuremburg type tribunals are in order to cull out these traitors and their cronies.
Adrienne, this report takes me back to my time in China in the early 80's. I laughed out loud at the "mei you" memories. Along with that we often heard the phrase "the man with the key is in Shanghai" when we wanted to purchase something in one of the glass cases in the shops. Thanks for the memory jog.

"...there was one notable change this time."  

China is changing every day, becoming freer and more open.  Don't be surprised, those of us who have lived here for some significant time (or have visited numerous times over a similar period of time) can easily attest to the great progress China has made, not just on human rights, but in all areas of her development.  

As for the reference of a 'unanimous' vote, perhaps my perspective can help to broaden other Westerners understanding of just how that is possible (besides the fact that China isn't a Democracy.)

During my more than five years here, I still don't know of a single Chinese who disagrees with the direction that the country is moving.  Many will disagree with the pace (too fast, too slow, etc...), but there really is near total agreement that the country is on the right path.  

And by the way, if that path had a name, it would be greater personal freedom.

Anyone walking the streets of China will see religion practiced openly. So what if it isn't Christian. China is a Monocracy where the people actually rule by their actions or non-actions. If a decision is good the people carry it out without hesitation. If a decision is bad no one complies. The spectacle has a Western flavor and probably is more self-assuring for the delegates themselves then the people they represent. If the US does not spoil the party at the Olympics in 2008, the world will stand with its mouth open and in ah. One who has been there.
Hurray for the new principle of free speach! and the modernized version of democracy!

"You can only be heard if we approve your singing our song"!
It is a new epoch for China. It will only take another 25 years to terminate China's cold hungry age!!
Does anyone have a clue as to what business the delegates acted on at this staged conference meeting?
There must be a special in-house cabinet/committee that discusses and makes decisions that the body politic rubber stamps.  After all, this is communist China and they don't operate in the open like
we do.  They know what they know and don't you wish we knew, too?  Doesn't seem like anything knew was learned.  Wasted trip?  Good propaganda?  Great photo ops?  Youn bet.  Expensive?  Wanna bet?
I believe that the Chinese are still our enemies. Their record for gestapo treatment of political and religious leaders not approved by the communist party is evidence enough.  Their control of major global manufacturing markets will have major negitive impact on USA's middle class.  Why did we sell the store to them?  At every turm they are somewhere behind our enemies. The friends of our enemies are our enemies.
Thanks, after being in China for 6 years, just in time to be witness to two of these extravaganza's, I find them quite amusing, and as many that know about them, also do not know about them and couldn't care less.  The Chinese people in general find no relevance to these meetings and their daily lives.  I could agree, so life will continue with Socialism with Chinese characteristics, Communism with Chinese characteristics, Capitalism with Chinese characteristics, and most unfortunately the upcoming Olympics with Chinese characteristics.
it use to be like this in Romania too. Days after the last Communist congress the president was shot and the cage was opened . The same will happen in China sooner or later.
Gee, Most of the people in Tibet and well-educated people will not understand what you are talking about, an ignorant dude from Texas.
I see some comments from folks that spent time in China. I also spent 4 years over there working and living. They are people just like us, wanting to provide for their families. I know many Chinese "Christians" that worship openly. Their daily lives are pretty much the same as here in America. The culture is a little different, but for the most part life goes on as usual. Forget the governments and look at the people.
USA is a democracy? Just what weed are you smoking? There is nothing democratic about the Bush-Cheney Admin. Illegal wiretapping, suspension of habeas corpus, torture, imprisonment without due process, gerrymandering electoral districts, taking the nation to war on lies (is there a bigger issue than War and peace for a sovereign nation ?) , corruption, cronyism.  Evidently, there are still around 24% of Americans who support this lawless, lying Bush admin, who would have thought neanderthals are still alive and well.
How stupid of these people that see in China a real change. Only one who lived under the oppresive communist rule know the reality. There can be no human rightsunless there is real freedom in everything, including freedom of speech, of relifion, of movement, freedom to assamble, and freedom to exprees yourself even against the ruling party. I know. I lived most of my life in Romania under communism. China has a long way to go. It is too bad that they take advantage of us (USA) and run such a big trade deficit.
My oh my how soon we forget the atrocities. Human rights, Tainted toys, so what if the delegates dress in loud off colored clothing. China is still China. A Communist country in every fashion of the word. Should the world simply play dumb and talk about how "fun" it was to attend this stage play?
Chinas Politicians are no different from ours, Ours stage most of there meetings and only show us what they want. Most of there Deals are behind closed Doors. We only hear what they want us to Hear.
And China is not a Country to Threaten, We found this out in Korea. And OUR bright Politicians and Generals got a lot of Americans Killed and Maimed,, Dam does this sound like whats going on NOW.
Well so much for COMMUNISM,  I understand that OUR Brains in IRAQ want to start GOVERMENT OWNED Companys so people can have Jobs. Are we teaching them Democracy. ????  ONLY as our Brains say its Democracy.
Yaddi, Yaddi, Yaddi....And the band played on. What a farce.  The above comments that congratulate the "growing freedom" here are living in in a fool's paradise.  This is the gang that keeps in power the mass murderer general of Burma, the initiator of genocide and exporter of terrorist nukes in North Korea, the little hitler of Teheran...and on and on....not to mention their own gulags.....this is a horrible government where there is NO freedom. PERIOD.  Move there if you want....just stay.
why are americans running to china. they are going there because of the all mighty dollar. farmers getting paid $5 a day to be in a movie. forshame.
It's sad that the USA land of freedom has so many of it's own people in prison for idealogical differences- that we must look at China to sooth our own guilt about our blood stained political system- our people need these distractions to forget how betrayed we are.  
People in China still aren't free. They monitor what they see on TV they are not allowed "western movies"  Did you see the Lisa Ling special on China how she snuck in with doctors to get a look at the real life in China. If your family is not part of the political party, they are very poor and not taken care of. They bless their leader and thank him for everything and  he is the one sufficating them. People are not free in speech cannot own a computor.There are a few who have protested, some have petitioned the government; but they never win, and some have been physically scarred in the process such as one man featured on the tape who is covered in burn scars. The man held a sign that said Human Rights were more important than life.how can people say they want to live there! I say people like you Don Cartwright go ahead move over there, let's see how long you will last. You open your mouth to say your opion yuo will be sent to a prison camp or could be killed for talking bad about the gov.
Maybe there is something the Chinese can teach Americans RESPECT! People in this country seem to have lost it for good.


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