'Death to America' and a cup of Starcups!
Posted: Saturday, March 17, 2007 12:40 PM
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Tehran, Iran
By Ian Williams, NBC News correspondent
"Death to America!"
Tens of thousands of fists punched the air as the chant reverberated around the vast tent-like mosque at Tehran University.
For 28 years the religious and revolutionary faithful have packed in here for Friday prayers, listening to hard-line clerics heap scorn on the United States, chanting on cue.
Aware of the power of this image, the authorities have built a stage for television cameras, where we were invited to set up our tripod – a sea of faces below, and to our left the podium from where the cleric whipped up the crowd. A mild-mannered guide was on hand, explaining the order of play, and pointing out the dignitaries sitting near the front.
Another chant. “Death to America?” I inquired. “No,” the guide replied with the sweetest of smiles, “that was ‘Death to England.’” Clearly the presiding cleric had opted for a bit of variety in his performance this week in what must be one of the most enduring slogans of the Islamic Republic.
But is it a particularly accurate reflection of the way ordinary Iranians think?
Leaving the university behind, we set out across Tehran to see how others were spending their Friday, their day of leisure, and what they thought of America. We passed the blood-curdling murals on the walls of the “Den of Spies,” the former U.S. Embassy – including a skull painted on the face of a statue of liberty. Veiled women waited for a bus nearby, while a group of teenagers languidly tossed a basketball close to the wall.
A cup of 'Starcups'
Then we arrived in the downtown shopping district. For the crowds packing the malls and bazaars, Friday is a day for bargain hunting, especially with the Persian New Year a few days away. A table near the entrance of one mall was stacked high with DVD copies of Hollywood movies – illegal, but openly sold.
In another mall we stopped at “Starcups,” where they call the coffee American, and where the most politically charged conversation was about who won the Oscars.
“Of course we know who all the actors are. Their pictures are in people’s homes,” said Amir, sipping coffee with a group of young friends. The women wore their headscarves well back on their heads, colored hair spilling out in the front – a fashion that can still invite harassment from the moral police.
Shops carried signs for Levis and Nike. Baseball caps were for sale, “NYC,” "LA," the New York Yankees, Budweiser, and the Statue of Liberty were among the logos emblazoned on the front.
Outside the mall, an older man, also called Amir, came across and introduced himself. He was from Shiraz, and visiting his family. What was his idea of America, I asked. “I think the people of America are very nice,” he said. “Really.” Then he added, almost apologetically: “But the government is not so good with our government.”
More than two–thirds of Iranians are under 30, most born after the revolution. They get their information online, or from the illicit satellite dishes sprouting on Tehran’s rooftops.
Avoiding the moral police
For them Friday is a day to head to the hills of north Tehran, where modest public displays of affection attract less attention from the moral police. The hillside here is dotted with colorful restaurants and stalls, laden with sizzling kebabs and sacks of nuts and dates. Water rushes down deep gullies from the melting snow above.
We met one young couple, Maryam and Mohsen, who like many couples up here walk hand in hand, something that would be more risky in the austere streets below.
Inside a restaurant, Maryam told us: “America has some good things. It’s not like we are told on the TV. They have a good people and a good culture.”
Her boyfriend cautiously agreed. “American people live well,” he said. “They have good industry and good education. Unfortunately America wants to solve its disputes with Iran in a strong-handed way, and sometimes that makes it harder to see the good side.”
It’s not really scientific, but spending a Friday traveling around Tehran (and braving the diabolical traffic) does leave the impression that the mullahs are somewhat out of touch.
In fact the people of Iran, with one of the region’s most anti-American governments, are probably better disposed toward the United States than in other countries in this region that call themselves allies of Washington.
Yes, there are concerns about U.S. policy – and a military attack on Iran would likely rally support behind the mullahs. As one young man said, "I don't like the government, but if Iran were attacked I'd defend my country."
But for most people we met in Tehran there are better ways of spending a Friday than crowding into the university mosque to cry “Death to America.”
