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Forbidden City Starbucks not so obvious

Posted: Tuesday, January 30, 2007 8:09 AM
Filed Under:

With all the media hoopla over the existence of Starbucks in China’s Forbidden City, we reckoned it would be easy to find it.

We turned out to be wrong.

Cameraman Maurice Roper, researcher Ed Flanagan, and I had read up on the Starbucks site. We had to. The Forbidden City – one of China’s great national treasures that dates back to 1420 – covers over 2 million square feet. 

But we knew the Starbucks kiosk was somewhere around the Hall of Preserving Harmony, near a gift shop, and news reports spoke of crowds of foreign media staked out outside.

Even if we got lost, surely, we thought, there would be a readily identifiable green circular logo.

Locating the Hall of Preserving Harmony was straightforward. Being a World Heritage site that draws nearly 9 million visitors a year, the Forbidden City is well signposted in Chinese and English.

Tourists drink coffee in the Starbucks c
Peter Parks / AFP - Getty Images
Tourists drink coffee in the Starbucks coffee shop in Beijing's Forbidden City on Jan. 19.

But nowhere was there Starbucks or a tell-tale crowd of journalists. Signs indicating a "coffee shop" in the general vicinity led us to two stands: one was shut, the other bore none of the familiar green and white hallmarks.

It wasn't until Ed spotted a Starbucks paper cup through a dusty window that we realized we were in fact standing right outside the kiosk.

No trademark green sign posts here
The Starbucks that some Chinese have been decrying so loudly as "trampling Chinese culture" is indiscernible – especially to untrained eyes likes ours – from the many restored buildings around the Imperial courtyard.  It's housed inside the Palace Museum Gift Shop and lacks any Starbucks signage.

"Starbucks's existence doesn't affect the Forbidden City's features or style," says Chen Yu.

He should know; he works at the National Museum.  And because of the proximity of his office to the Forbidden City, sometimes walks past the Starbucks kiosk. "I think Starbucks gives people another choice, and Starbucks never hurt the Forbidden City so why don't we give Starbucks a little place in the Forbidden City."

Of course, many Chinese believe differently. For instance, Annie Wei – a recent college graduate – says the Starbucks inside the Forbidden City should be replaced with a Chinese-run teahouse.

Adrienne Mong / NBC News
This building houses not only the well-signposted official gift shop inside China's legendary Forbidden City, but also a not-so-visible Starbucks coffee shop.

But columnist Raymond Zhou, an observer of social change in China, argues, "The Chinese culture is strong enough, rich enough to incorporate what is good, beneficial to us and to…humankind."

Apparently so. As Chen from the National Museum prepared to leave our bureau after our interview, we offered to take him back home. But he said that he was meeting a friend nearby. Where? At the Starbucks just across the road.

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Comments

This column is very interesting. I would like to let all know that about a month ago, a friend of mine from Beijing (Peking) would like to meet with me in downtown Calgary. I asked her "where?", she replied "Sing Parh Kerk". I said "where?", she replied again "Sing Parh Kerk". Oh.... I knew, "Star" translated to Chinese was pronounced as "Sing", "Bucks" in Chinese was pronounced as "Parh Kerk". I am sure all English speaking people have heard this name "Sing Parh Kerk" everywhere in China! What a beautiful translation/ pronunciation! "Sing Parh Kerk". Well done.
Makes me laugh, the chinese think it is ok to have everything made in their country and than flood the world with their cheap goods as part of the chinese commercialism. How dare they make comments such as why does,nt starbucks show some respect and do'nt build starbucks in china. OK why do'nt all american corporations operating in china close down their businesses, let's stop importing cheap chinese goods and let the chinese go back to their own old way.
There sure are some snarky responses to this. Like the one about a, " little piece of America made it into the most sacred place in China." Remember, China is by definition a Communist nation, thus it is also officially an atheist nation. (If you doubt that, next time you visit, put a Bible or a Koran in your luggage. It will be confiscated, you will be interrogated, maybe arrested.) There is no such thing as 'sacred' there. The really cool thing is that they fitted the obnoxious Starbucks into a nice, quiet little niche. Thus forcing it to be more mom and pop coffee house than obnoxiously American behemoth. This is a good thing! It shows we are not in fact, trying to run the whole world, but can fit in nicely to another society. Thus the myth of the "ugly american" may one day be disposed of. This is also a good thing.
I think one thing westerners as well as many young chinese forget is that China has been assimilating multiculture and ethnic behaviors business practices and entertainment for 5000 years now. "Chinese" purity is no more "pure" than a "Pure" american. There are chinese with blue eyes, red or blond hair etc. The Roman empire regularly traded with China as well as the Persians, Africans etc over the last 5 millenia. The fact that American is now the darling of China isn't surprising as chinese and China simply want to prosper and regain their rightful place on the world stage. The fact that younger chinese find a Starbucks in the Forbidden City offensive or that many chinese want to emmulate western culture is neither surprise or at odds with each other. As China expands and awakens to the world again it will do as it has in its past history. That is take in what it considers "good" and disregard what it doesn't think is "good". The younger people in China today have a sense of national pride but a lack of self identity. They don't want to identify with the Maoist years because they were too harsh and violent and impoversished yet they also don't want to identify with the West because they want to be what they are- Chinese. So inevitably the "new" chinese are striving to regain their sense of indentity and reclaim their heritage. As such Starbucks in the Forbidden City is just a way of focusing on their own identity and a means to say "this is not Chinese".
Starbuck....Smarbucks...can understand why they took the sign down..its just coffee..get over it people.
I heard that Starbucks was allowed (encouraged?) to open the store because China needed money to repair/maintain their buildings. Starbucks didn't just barge in. I was under the impression that since China doesn't need the income anymore, they've decided Starbucks doesn't belong there. Starbucks isn't any different than any other American company that wants to get into a new market, and they had the opportunity and took it. Chinese companies have done the same thing in America, and we haven't tried to kick them out.
To Katie from Newport Beach. It isn't Sbux fault they were granted permission to be there so why is it so disgusting? Most people don't even find the place and it is no different than finding another coffee company in there. Does anyone say anything when there are strip malls totally devoted to Asian shops in North America? Let up and enjoy your visit, no one is asking you to go in and enjoy some quality coffee. Sbux is a leader in business and they obviously respect where they are as they do in alot of other places. I am sure setting up was not easy to do there. They are also a great company to work for.
I impressed to see how much the Communist China progress in past 20 years congratulation to American supported the Communist China by given them jobs, special tax status so they can sell their "Junk" products in American market with out to pay a penny of tax to UA Government. I hope soon the communist not take over America. P/S when President Bush went to VN 2 months ago, he wore Vietneames "Ao Day" men dresses and stood below "Ho Chi Minh" portrait, he looks like a very clown & surrendered to Communist. P/S Go Bears
I read about the debate before my scheduled (Jan 07) visit in Beijing so I was determined to check out the Starbucks in Forbidden City. To my dismay- the mini Starbucks outlet was sooo inconspicuous(sigboard reads COFFEE BAR and operates as part of a tourist shop with a capacity for max 5-6 ppl).
THEN!!! there was this full fledged LAVAZZO cafe a few meters down the hall way with outstanding signboard and great bar and has a much greater seating capacity than most restaurants and cafes in Forbidden City.

Extracted reasoning from Rui- "cafe undermined the 'solemnity of the Forbidden City and (trampled on) Chinese culture" ????


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